![]() ![]() Pages 531-537 are Ormerod's account of the Aston family from the reign of Henry II up to the time of Sir Willoughby Aston, 2nd Baronet, with an added family tree which follows the family up to Sir Arthur Ingram Aston. George Ormerod: The History of the County Palatine and City of Chester, Volume I, 2nd edition, revised and enlarged by Thomas Helsby (George Routledge, London, 1882). ![]() ![]() ![]() Notitia Parliamentaria, Part II: A Series or Lists of the Representatives in the several Parliaments held from the Reformation 1541, to the Restoration 1660. The Baronetage of England: Attribution Public domain: "Aston, Thomas". Synopsis of the Extinct Baronetage of England. A Genealogical and Heraldic History of the Extinct and Dormant Baronetcies of England, Ireland and Scotland (2nd ed.).
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![]() I can absolutely second the approach taken by Timothy Hicks (described above). But what I found was that by laying the towel over the area second time for a few minutes, the residue wiped right off. I did get it a little too hot in a few places and melted the plastic fairly severely. After 10-20 min, the plastic coating peeled off as if it were new. Then I soaked a towel in Xylene and placed it on top of plastic and let it sit. What I found to work was to use a heat gun and warm the metal. Then I did some searching and found that Xylene at elevated temperatures would penetrate the LDPE. As with most people I tried every solvent I could think of. I have tried for a number of days to come up with a method of removing some of the black and white LDPE film from some carts that were built a few years ago and stored in a location where they saw sunlight. note: Tim uses the phrase 'water based', and indeed the stripper can be rinsed with water, but don't infer from this that the material is 'safe' please check the SDS.Ī. If you do, atomic iron from the mild steel will become embedded in the surface where it promptly rusts and discolors it.Įd. Incidentally, NEVER use mild steel tools or steel wool on a SS surface. Buff out any remaining scratched with a SS pot scrubber, again working in the direction of the underlying polish. Buff out the remaining residue with a paper towel soaked in Jasco. This should remove almost all of the residue. Wait 5 minutes and then re-strip with the putty knife. Water based paint stripper, all over the surface. The result will be a mottled, greasy-looking surface, the remains of the plastic and the glue.Īmazon affil links], apply a generous film of Jasco [on ![]() Be sure to work in the directions of the polishing to minimize surface damage. ![]() Someone else here suggested a blow torch, but I have found that that can damage/distort the surface. Here's what I have found to be the best way to remove this plastic coating from polished SS:Īmazon affil link] (mine is a B&D Heat and Strip) and a 1 1/2" putty knife, to heat the plastic coating and gently scrape it off the surface. The basic problem is that the white (vinyl?) coating makes it very hard to get at the glue with anything that can soften it. It is very tough and, if left exposed to sunlight, is almost impossible to remove without trashing the underlying surface. The plastic I am talking about is the white kind that is standard from the mill to protect polished SS. Actually, I probably would have been pissed thinking about all of the work I could have avoided.Īnyway, the ammonia seemed to make no difference at all. Wow, I thought, is this what I have been missing! So I tried it, but alas, it wasn't to be. I have had to remove the plastic film from stainless steel on many occasions over the years so was surprised/happy/delirious when I came across this site suggesting that ammonia would remove the film. but when you mentioned a slew of aromatic hydrocarbons, I was a-wondering if the protective sleeving was Polyethylene which had somehow 'heat bonded' itself to the sheeting. Let's hope that those other people's helpful suggestions will work. You really should find out WHAT the covering material was and WHAT, if any, was the 'glue' used! Then and then only could people make suitable suggestions. note: Several people have recommended that readers proceed immediately to Terry Smith's posting as the simplest solution, and it sounds like something you haven't tried yet. None of these solvents have any significant effect on the adhesive residue. We have tried to remove this residue using MEK, lacquer thinner, xylol_xylene and toluene products, and even gasoline and WD-40. The film is sometimes extremely difficult to remove, often leaving a heavy adhesive residue on the metal. ![]() This film is removed at the job site after installation. We are presently working with a stainless-steel material that comes from the metal suppler covered with a protective plastic film. Our company manufactures and installs sheet-metal systems for enclosing piping, wiring, etc. Many specific name brand products were suggested as well. Other non-brand name successes included acetone, and heat gun plus a scraper. ![]() There are different adhesives & situations, but the most successes were reported with hot/boiling water or ammonia. How to remove plastic film & adhesive from stainless steel, brass Plating, anodizing, & finishing Q&As since 1989 ![]() ![]() ![]() It was sublicensed to Milton Bradley, who was later bought out by Hasbro. The game was created by Jacques Modendorff, in the early 1940s. Stratego combines elements of war and strategy games but also contains puzzle-like elements. Our guide will be sure to help outline the Stratego rules for you as well. Getting to grips with the gameplay may seem challenging at first, but Stratego is suitable for children 8 and up. If you’re a fan of strategy games, then Stratego is easy to recommend. ![]() Stratego may seem like Chess and first glance, but it plays very differently. It’s a veteran of board game nights and successfully combines multiple different genres. I feel this is a great Strategy.Stratego is one of those classic 2 player board games that has captivated people for years. As you march up on the left side you can use your Scouts to flood this side and to probe what is coming to greet you. This causes a great deal of problem for them because they have to move a great deal to reposition them to take out my Bombs.Īlso, notice the back line of Scouts. Most of the players I play against tend to keep their Miners in the back ranks. Here is a real aggressive setup where you hope to eliminate his Miners and flood him from one side. This setup aims to swallow up all your opponent's Miners before the Flag can be reached. This second one is really close to a tip from a guy named Robert on your site. (I know it seems kinda silly now but I was 13 or 14 at the time). The second setup was from a later period when I was naming setups after airplanes, hence the name B29. The strategy was to hit hard on the left and hopefully his counterattack would run into the Bombs. The first one is an older setup when I had a one-dimensional style of play. The following is from Mike Rowles Bomb Barrier I have my Spy in a key spot so he can't get to my Flag. I hold a lot of Miners and Scouts for later in the game. I send my front line out to try to get an idea of where his pieces are, then I try my best not to let him penetrate my 2nd line. Most of my opponents bypass my Flag and are surprised to learn that it was in the first row after I defeat them. I also have several Scouts on that side to test the strengths of my opponent's pieces, making sure my Colonel and Major are not taken by surprise. The right side is rather weak, however, that is countered by the placement of the Bombs preventing any aggressive horizontal movement. The Bombs in the center are used to force play to the sides. ![]() The Flag is very well protected by the Marshal on one side and by a Colonel on the other. Scouts are placed at the front to test the opponent's defense and then in the back as reserves where they can become very useful in the endgame. This is a variation of the Shoreline Bluff. Setups from Various Players This setup comes from Philip Atzemoglou This setup from Anthony, has never failed him Setups from the Accolade game Different classic inital setups from the epic Stratego game. It's rather weak defensively though, it worked well when setups of this style were still unexpected but later it got too weak. This is an old setup that he invented on his first world championships. The flag on this position is something he often used against stronger opponents, but the rest of the pieces he usually change every time in such games. Harder It's harder to defend the flag in the corner, but otherwise works very well. It's outspoken aggressive and not very suitable for careful slow games, but it's less predictable and works better against stronger players.Īnother setup he used often. This is another setup he has used often on tournaments. It is a bit predictable, but all pieces are at hand when you need them and it works well for both attack and defense. He didn't used any other setup as often on tournaments and several other players have successfully used this setup as well. This is one of his most "famous" setups, which is a dubious quality for a Stratego setup. The first 6 setups are from Vincent Deboer (World Champion Stratego). Best Setups of a former World Champion Player ![]() |
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